istry and more than enough experience in the
food industry. Her breakout, in 1995, was the
establishment of a home-style enchilada res-
taurant; the rest, as they say, is history. The
culture at Casares’ restaurant, Sylvia’s Enchila-
da Kitchen, completely debunks the notion of
Tex-Mex food as an indistinguishable globby
brown stew on a plate. Instead, Casares care-
fully and lovingly shows readers the how-to’s
of enchiladas and tamales (with photographs);
shares the recipe for her Holy Trinity Spice
Paste; and, in general, explains her 80 border-
cuisine dishes, from the two-step secret to
enchiladas to the glorious chocolate tres leches
cake. Enchilada queen: a much-deserved accolade. —Barbara Jacobs
Ethnic American Cooking: Recipes for
Living in a New World.
Ed. by Lucy M. Long.
Oct. 2016. 248p. illus. Rowman & Littlefield, $38
Quintessentially a nation of immigrants,
America owes its character as much to the
diversity of its foods as to those who populate its land. Every newly arrived group brings
its own foodways to America’s shores, adding
meats, fruits, vegetables, and spices hitherto
unknown. With no access to ingredients that
can’t thrive in North America’s climate, creative substitution became a necessity, and so
dishes drifted from their originals. Here, Long
inventories the different nationalities in alphabetical order and provides one or two recipes
for each, typifying the kinds of foods immigrants imported. Long makes it her business
to find something to illustrate just about every
ethnic tradition: China, Italy, France, Germany, and even diminutive Vanuatu islands and
San Marino. Exacting culinarians may balk at
the authenticity of some of the recipes here,
but Long has tried to reflect the challenges
and realities of immigrant cooking with commonly available American supermarket meats
and produce. —Mark Knoblauch
Food Anatomy: The Curious Parts &
Pieces of Our Edible World.
By Julia Rothman and Rachel Wharton.
Oct. 2016. 224p. illus. Storey, paper, $16.95
The food encyclopedia meets the graphic
novel in this knowledgeable basic introduction to all things edible. Rothman begins her
exploration of eating with some informative
colored line drawings of table settings from
cultures the world over. Her brief survey of
historical equipment illustrates the evolution
of the stove from rococo cast-iron behemoths
to today’s high-tech kitchen appliances.
Her drawings enhance explanations of food
technologies from cheese manufacturing to
production of all sorts of Western and Eastern
noodles. A few recipes appear, ranging from
a complex method for Finnish rye bread to
rich kugel, a baked noodle pudding. Textual
and visual glossaries abound, defining grains,
Despite the rise of foodie blogs and ubiquitous Internet recipes, cookbooks and food microhistories remain popular in many libraries. Savor these titles reviewed in Booklist from October 1, 2015,
to September 15, 2016. —Rebecca Vnuk
The Book of Spice: From Anise to Zedoary. By John O’Connell.
2016. Pegasus, $26.95 (9781681771526).
More than just culinary reference, this book delves into the rich
history of spices and how they’ve helped shape the modern world.
Essential Emeril: Favorite Recipes and Hard-Won Wisdom from My Life in the Kitchen.
By Emeril Lagasse and Pam Hoenig. 2015. Oxmoor, $29.95 (9780848744786).
Emeril’s influence on American cuisine is legendary, and the recipes here range from
simple to complex.
Following Fish: One Man’s Journey into the Food and Culture of the Indian Coast. By
Samanth Subramanian. 2016. St. Martin’s/Thomas Dunne, $25.99 (9781250069733).
Journalist Subramanian hunts down India’s finest fish cuisines, meeting with legendary
chefs, fishmongers, town gossips, and religious figures.
Heart and Soul in the Kitchen. By Jacques Pépin. 2015. HMH/Rux Martin, $35
Master of French technique Pépin’s latest book validates his command of French cuisine but also demonstrates an international flair.
The Illustrated Kitchen Bible: 1,000 Family Recipes from around the World. Ed. by Victoria Blashford-Snell. 2016. DK, $24.95 (9781465451552).
This may put comprehensive cookbooks back in fashion, all gussied up with color photographs and distinctly contemporary recipes.
Masters of the Grill: Foolproof Recipes, Top-Rated Gadgets, Gear, & Ingredients Plus
Clever Test Kitchen Tips & Fascinating Food Science. 2016. America’s Test Kitchen, $29.95
The fine folks at America’s Test Kitchen turn their attention to one of America’s favorite
summer pastimes, grilling.
One Dough, Ten Breads: Making Great Bread by Hand. By Sarah Black. 2016. HMH, $25
With detailed, step-by-step instructions and photographs, this book is practically a
hands-on course in the art of bread.
Sara Moulton’s Home Cooking 101: How to Make Everything Taste Better. By Sara
Moulton. 2016. Oxmoor, $35 (9780848744410).
Moulton’s latest companion to her television series focuses on recipes for cooks who
want an easy way to get nutritious and flavorful food onto family tables on a nightly basis.
Tasting Wine and Cheese: An Insider’s Guide to Mastering the Principles of Pairing. By
Adam Centamore. 2015. Quarto/Quarry, $24.99 (9781631590672).
This very focused and gorgeously illustrated book will inspire readers to create successful pairings on their own.
Women Chefs of New York. By Nadia Arumugam. 2015. Absolute, $35 (9781632860767).
Although the 100 unusual recipes presented here are certainly one attraction of this
book, the interviews with two-dozen-plus-one women chefs are, in a word, mesmerizing.
TOP 10 FOOD BOOKS
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